孤身绝壁
最新书摘:
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独自等待2021-10-17一方面我仍然是个孩子,充满了对世界的好奇,追逐梦想中的遥远巅峰。但我也是个父亲,这意味着我不能随便死亡。
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独自等待2021-10-17我也着手做了很小的项目,比如给妈妈的房子装上太阳能板,为尽量选择食物链低端的食物而放弃肉类。某些情况下,做出这些努力甚至看起来很傻,因为我们的世界面临的环境问题远不是任何一个人的行动所能改变的。但是,一些岩壁看起来也是非常大而高不可攀的,攀爬这些岩壁的努力似乎是毫无意义的。但攀爬的美感总是来自于过程本身的回馈。
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独自等待2021-10-172010年,我们在乍得沙漠里漫长的自驾过程中,我第一次获得了一种顿悟。这种顿悟就是,跟我看到的整天和泥制坯的人,还有那些鞭打驴子让它们更快运水的孩子相比,我的生活太轻松了。这顿悟一直萦绕在我的心头。最终的问题是,它应该怎样指引我的生活,特别是有赞助让我的生活更加轻松之后。
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独自等待2021-10-172001年,汤米用台锯时不小心锯掉了自己的左手食指。那种不幸的事故很可能会结束掉一个攀岩者的职业生涯。汤米缝合了断指,但是因为它只会妨碍他的攀岩,他又把它割掉了。尽管断掉了一节手指,现在37岁的他仍然像以前爬得一样好。
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独自等待2021-10-17后来我问皮耶罗那些游牧人是如何在沙漠中精确导航的,尤其是他们迷路的后果还那么严重——方位上很轻微的失误也将意味着错过下一口水井,然后因为缺水死在偏僻的无名之地。皮耶罗解释说:“他们会利用太阳和风向导航,冬季的风向是不变的。”我反驳说:“应对这么生死攸关的问题,似乎不能只依赖于太阳和风。”皮耶罗用攀登打比方说:“有时你发现自己处于脱落就意味着死亡的境地,你便不会脱落。”这帮我理解了这件事——游牧民就是不犯错误。
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独自等待2021-10-17最近一个记者问我是否可以在一段时间内不攀岩。“当然了。”我答道。“你是说你可以比如……一个月不攀岩?”他问。“当然不行!”我脱口而出,“一个月不行!我以为你是说三天呢。”
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独自等待2021-10-17我百分之一百地确定,我不会脱落,正是那种确定感让我不会脱落。
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马栏山铁头2021-01-24我们常常追问自己:生命的意义究竟何在?从最现实的维度而言,你生命的意义往往就是你把最多时间和精力花费其中的事。汲汲营营于生存和物质,被生活中的问题和框架推着前进,非我所欲也;可完全不功利不媚俗,硬下心肠去从事内心真正想做的事,又常常非我所能也。
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沙人掌2020-11-273。亚历克斯的攀登生涯中,一年中有百分之九十五的时间都是绑好了绳子有保障地攀登的,只有很少的时间在完全准备好的情况下オ会玩徒手,那个时候线路上的每一步,每一个动作都已经烂熟于心了。他的确很享受过程中肾上腺素飙升的刺激,但他肯定不是个亡命之徒。
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沙人掌2020-11-272。2016年亚历克斯去做了一个核磁共振扫描,医生发现他脑内的扁桃体异常。脑内扁桃体的作用是对恐惧做出反应和控制,不管是因为常年徒手独攀而导致异常,还是因为异常才能完成徒手独攀,总之这件事说明:亚历克斯对害怕的理解和控制能力和大部分人不一样。
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沙人掌2020-11-271。亚历克斯19岁那年,父亲在机场疾步奔跑赶飞机的时候心脏病突发猝死。这样突然的离开让亚历克斯开始思考人生和生活方式这种复杂的题。此外,父亲的人身保险有他一份,他拿去投资了债券,每个月保证有几百美金的收入,オ得以退学,住在房车里,四处攀岩。
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δεζη2021-04-08There’s no such thing as the “best climber,” because the sport has subdivided into so many genres, from Himalayan mountaineering to bouldering in indoor gyms.
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δεζη2021-04-08Sitting and thinking, hour after hour. Visualizing every single move, everything that could possibly happen. That’s what it takes to wrap your mind around a challenge such as the one I was about to attempt.That’s what I mean by preparation. Now I’d find out if I’d prepared adequately—if I could simply execute what I’d visualized, every handhold and foothold on the long way to the top of the wall.
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δεζη2021-04-08With my toprope, I climbed the upper 600 feet of Moonlight Buttress twice. The crux of the whole route—the hardest single passage, which is the make-or-break stretch of an ascent—is an amazing clean inside corner, 180 feet long. It’s the fourth of nine pitches on the route, and it’s what gives the climb its 5.12d rating. It’s continuous and really strenuous, so your arms get pretty pumped by the time you reach the top of it.
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δεζη2021-04-08For me, free soloing a big wall is all about preparation. In a real sense, I had performed the hard work on Moonlight Buttress during the days leading up to the climb. Once I was on the route, it was just a matter of executing.
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δεζη2021-04-08The day before, sitting in my van in the rain, I had deliberately visualized everything that might happen on the climb. Including breaking a hold, or just losing it and falling off. I saw myself bouncing off the ledge below and going all the way to the ground, fracturing most of my bones as I rag-dolled down the mountain. I’d probably bleed out at the base.
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照叶2020-04-30He was asked, “If you don’t believe in God or an after-life, doesn’t that make this life all the more precious?” Alex responded: “I suppose so, but just because something is precious doesn’t mean you have to baby it. Just like suburbanites who have a shiny new SUV that they are afraid to dent. What’s the point in having an amazing vehicle if you’re afraid to drive it? “I’m trying to take my vehicle to new and interesting places. And I try my very best not to crash, but at least I take it out.”